Upon further inspection we noticed that the waves were probably around 7-10 feet. Since it had been such a long time since I surfed, and even when I did I shyed away from really big waves (I like perfect 4-6 footers), I chickened out. Mr X, being the ever brave man he is and a lover of surfing, didn't even consider backing away. So we rented him a board. We got the nicest, newest 9' longboard they had and Mr X headed out.
I was hopping along all the sharp lava rocks trying to get in a good position to take pictures of Mr X in all his surfing glory but it was hard to get any because the waves were too big in front to see the surfers past the breakers very well. But I did get this one:
I was just glad Mr X was alive and well.
3 comments:
Where's the rest of the story? That was a bit of a shock to realize that the board was now in two pieces. After the shock, I was glad to see that Jeff was there and smiling.
That's where the story ends because we had to pay $300 for the broken board and so after that surfing was no more.
My spousal unit drooled over the waves. He also commented that if he would have been there, he would have got another surf board and gone right back out. I think he is going to grill Mr. X on why he didn't head back out there.
Post a Comment